Now go into the car, and you'll find the shift lever isįorward but freely swings back and forth. Put the tranny lever into 3rd gear again. Or only does so at the ends of the throw. With that loose, when you move the tranny lever up and down, you'llįind that the shift lever in the car no longer moves side to side, You'll noticeĪ bolt attaching that arm to a cable. You'll also notice an arm just underneath the tranny lever that swingsįorward and back when you pull or push the lever up or down. Reverse, unlike at the shift lever where it blocks you out. Look at the shift lever in the car and see if you got the right spot.įinding 1st is the trickiest because it's between 3rd and reverseĪnd you'll notice that there's no real resistance to getting into You should be able to sit there and move the lever up and downĪnd left and right and get it into every gear, sometimes requiringĪ little wiggling to coerce the gears to mesh.
Push down a lot (all the way) and left - reverse Push down (just a little) and right - 2nd From this neutral spot they are as follows. Neutral position between 3rd and 4th gear. Now go back under the hood and reach down and grab the tranny leverĪnd wiggle it until it pops out of gear. Set the ebrake because you'll be taking the car in and out of gear. Is the same as the centering position of this spring, and there'sĮnough clearance that reverse and 5th engage without hitting To make it so that the natural position of the tranny lever Spring doesn't have ANY influence on the natural positions of Inside the car, and loosen the bolt that hold the side to To do this, first pop the cover off the shift lever opening (literally) for how the tranny lever works. Now the best way to sort all this out is to get a good feel Smoothly or as smoothly as you can get it given whatever shifting Left = counter clockwise - when I'm talking about tranny leverįirst warm the car up with a drive so that it slips in and out of gear Tranny lever = the *actual* shift lever directly attached to the top of Shift lever = lever inside the car with shift knob Let me make the terms I'll use clear first.
You can't really do any damage so don't worry about that, but alsoĭon't feel like you have to settle for "barely good enough", when "just This whole procedure only requires 1 or 2 end wrenches and some time. I'm open to any help, suggestions or thoughts anything that is going to help me resolve this issue. What could cause this? I am completely stumped and so are the people I have asked who are more knowledgable than I. I then removed the slave cylinder to check for damage and found none (little did I know at the time there isn't really a way to check for a malfunctioning slave cylinder). Yesterday I bled the clutch with new fluid from German Auto Parts and had no luck. Also, when moving the shifter to reverse, it generates a quick but very harsh grinding. This problem only happens when the motor is running and engagement of the clutch begins almost immediately once I start to pull my foot off the clutch (~.5" from fully depressed). I should also mention that as of now, with the car off, I am able to shift gears fine. As of yesterday, I can not get the transmission into first or second. By the next day (Monday) the only way I could engage first gear was by going to second and then first. This past weekend I was driving the car and noticed a stiffness in the shifter which made engaging first and second gear harder than normal. All gears shifted the same as they did before the swap, clutch engagement was near midway on the pedal and everything else seemed good. Since the build, I have driven the car nearly 3,000 miles and not had a single transmission problem (until now). The transmission already had a Peloquin and a TDI 5th gear but other wise is stock. Included in this build was a southbend OFE SS 4 clutch (full face, 20% increase on the PP). Recently, I pulled the motor and swapped it for an OBDII vr from a B4 passat as part of my turbo project. I have a 93 Corrado VR6 with an O2A transmission, uses a hydraulic clutch.
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